Dr. Tyler Nelson: Stronger Wrists, Stronger Climbing

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In this episode focused on all things wrists, Dr. Tyler Nelson brings the science and application, covering:

• Why there’s been a steady rise of wrist injuries in climbers
• How to train up wrist flexion strength to perform better on slopers 
• The reason bigger holds can be more injurious
• Google won't show you the most common climber injury
• Wrist Wrench vs. Rolling Thunder
• Set and rep scheme for wrist training
• To tape or not to tape?
• Recovery time frames for wrist injuries
• How to return to hard climbing faster after an injury

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Check out Tyler's course on wrist injury and rehab, and his many other fantastic courses: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction and Overview

00:27 Welcome and Guest Introduction

00:44 Understanding Wrist Injuries in Climbers

02:56 Personal Experiences and Injury Management

04:32 Training and Strengthening Techniques

46:24 Managing Wrist Injuries in Climbing

47:39 Personal Experiences with Wrist Pain

50:09 Common Wrist Injuries in Climbers

57:48 Recovery and Rehabilitation Strategies

01:15:23 Training Tips and Final Thoughts

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

 

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!