Dive Into Hawaii Surf Culture: Catch a Wave Where Legends Roamed

Drop in to the world of Hawaiian surf culture—its deep roots in island history, why it’s the perfect place for beginners to learn, and how women are reclaiming their places on the waves.

Tourists visiting Hawaii from the mainland might look out from the beach at the surfers riding the waves, and think it’s all just part of the tropical scenery. But to native-born Hawaiians, those surfers signify a whole lot more. They’re living links to the history of the islands. They’re echoes of an era when Hawaiian royalty had their own private breaks off the same beach. They remind them of when Duke Kahanamoku rode a single wave for more than a mile on Oahu's south shore. And even of a time when Hawaiians first arrived in the islands after sailing from Tahiti. That’s how deep its roots are.

Join us as we explore those roots with Mindy Pennybacker, author of Surfing Sisterhood Hawaii: Wahine Reclaiming the Waves. We talk about the history and culture of surfing in Hawaii, but also her own evolution from bookworm to seasoned surfer, the best places for beginners to learn, and why she thinks surfing in California is inferior. (The short version: Cold water, kelp, and great white sharks.)

Guest:

Fourth-generation Hawaiian Mindy Pennybacker is a distinguished journalist, author, and lifelong surfer. A former surfing columnist for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser, she has also contributed to The Atlantic, The New York Times, and The Wall Street Journal. Pennybacker is the author of Surfing Sisterhood Hawaii: Wahine Reclaiming the Waves and Do One Green Thing: Saving the Earth Through Simple, Everyday Choices. She holds degrees from Stanford University and UC Davis School of Law and attended the University of Iowa Writers’ Workshop. As a youngster, she was the only girl in the competitive Tonggs Surf Gang. Mindy lives in Honolulu.

Via Podcast is a production of AAA Mountain West Group.