The inventor of margarine, French chemist Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès, patented his butter substitute on 15th July, 1869. Inspired by a competition launched by Emperor Napoleon III to find a cheaper, longer-lasting alternative to butter for the French Navy, Mège-Mouriès called his creation ‘oléomargarine’.
It combined purified beef fat with milk and water to create a spread that was more stable than butter and less likely to spoil. The patent rights were eventually sold to Dutch manufacturers, eventually leading to Unilever...
The inventor of margarine, French chemist Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès, patented his butter substitute on 15th July, 1869. Inspired by a competition launched by Emperor Napoleon III to find a cheaper, longer-lasting alternative to butter for the French Navy, Mège-Mouriès called his creation ‘oléomargarine’.
It combined purified beef fat with milk and water to create a spread that was more stable than butter and less likely to spoil. The patent rights were eventually sold to Dutch manufacturers, eventually leading to Unilever evolving the spread into one of the world's biggest consumer products. As it spread across North America, dairy farmers saw it as a serious threat, leading to the so-called "Butter Wars" bans.
In this episode, Arion, Rebecca and Olly consider how margarine kick-started a fad for lab-grown foods which continues to this day; ask why posh restaurants never seem to make their own; and reveal why Wisconsin didn’t legalise it until 1967…
Further Reading:
• ‘Spread it around. Just don't mention it’ (The Washington Post, 2010): https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/2010/09/29/spread-it-around-just-dont-mention-it/66f52152-caa2-11df-8eee-2e1a26a3708e/
• ‘Hippolyte Mege-Mouries: A brief history of the bootleg margarine trade’ (Slate, 2013): https://slate.com/news-and-politics/2013/03/hippolyte-mege-mouries-a-brief-history-of-the-bootleg-margarine-trade.html
• ‘Watch how easy it is to make homemade margarine!’ (News24, 2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFm2aCP_wx0
#Food #Inventions #France #1800s
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The Retrospectors are Olly Mann, Rebecca Messina & Arion McNicoll, with Matt Hill.
Theme Music: Pass The Peas. Announcer: Bob Ravelli. Graphic Design: Terry Saunders. Edit Producer: Ollie Peart.
Copyright: Rethink Audio / Olly Mann 2026.
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