Tea outsells every beverage in Japan. Bottled green teas are far more popular than soda. Hot tea consumption, however, has declined by half from more than a kilo per capita. Loose leaf volume spiked briefly during the pandemic but is now at a seven-decade low. In contrast, overseas demand for Japanese teas set a recent sales record. Today, we have the privilege of talking with Rikko Osaki, an accomplished green tea wholesaler, licensed Japanese Green Tea Advisor, and the founder of Hokusan, a brand with family roots in tea.
Aging farmers and fierce competition in the beverage market have led some to question whether Japan’s tea industry can be sustained, says Rikko, “We haven’t had a revolution in 20 years. I think it’s time for the younger generation's creativity to establish new trends. There is always more opportunity, especially in a technologically strong country like Japan.”
Rikko Osaki’s upbringing is deeply intertwined with the tea lands surrounding Mt. Fuji, a region that produces many famous teas. With its spectacular coastline, hot springs, and fertile volcanic soil, Shizuoka is a growing region that plays a pivotal role in Japan's tea production, producing 40% of Japan’s tea in 2023, totaling about 27,200 metric tons. Rikko’s brother is a green tea sommelier and exporter who sources her teas. Rikko has lived in Canada for 20 years. Four years ago, she founded Hokusan. She specializes in matcha, a unique and highly sought-after variety of Japanese green tea.
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