The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Last summer I started a list titled "Non Climbing (realistic) Dream Guests". I only got as far as one name: Dan John. I was planning to be in Salt Lake for the OR Trade Show, so I emailed Dan on the off chance that he'd do an in person conversation. To my surprise he emailed back almost immediately, scheduled a call for the next day, and invited me to his house to workout and record the conversation.
If you've taken even a cursory look into the field of Strength and Conditioning, you've seen the name Dan John repeatedly. He's often quoted by other coaches, including all of us here at Power Company Climbing, and his pragmatic approach to training is one that has resonated with me since I read his book, Easy Strength, co written with kettlebell guru Pavel Tsatsouline.
I went to his house to discuss his newest book, "Now What?", which asks and answers the important questions that coaches and athletes often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What? This book follows two other excellent books from Dan called "Intervention" and "Can You Go?", both of which should be required reading for coaches.
The wisdom that Dan shares concerning coaching and dealing with athletes is impossible to overvalue. While he's worked with Olympic and Professional athletes, he still makes time for an open workout in his simple garage gym at 9:30 every morning, where he both dispenses knowledge and learns from whoever shows up that day. After a workout in Dan's gym, this style of what Dan calls "intentional community" is exactly how I plan to build my own home gym.
You can find Dan at www.danjohn.net
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions
TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable
REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
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