The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
It used to be that training for climbing was out in the open. Wolfgang trained for the hardest route in the world. John Bachar and the Stonemasters turned Camp 4 into a training gym. Tony Yaniro made no secrets about how hard he trained.
Then sometime in the 90’s it became cool to NOT train. I’m not sure exactly when that was, but by the time I was climbing in the late 90’s there was a fairly large faction of climbers who were disgusted by the fact that some people chose to train.
Recently the tides have changed, and Matt Fultz is one of the pro climbers who has led that charge. He’s not at all shy about his training habit - even going beyond the extremely climbing specific training that most pros will allow to be seen. What I didn’t expect was how much thought and deliberation Matt has put into his training. It kind of blew me away.
A new breed of boulderer, Matt’s training shows up for him in big ways. A glance at his 8a scorecard shows nearly 500 double digit boulders up to V15/16. That’s no accident.
In this episode Matt and I sit down a week before his annihilation of the Hueco Rock Rodeo (video below) for a wide ranging discussion on training, grades, weight loss, and more.
Find Matt on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/matt_fultz/?hl=en
Watch Matt rampage at the Hueco Rock Rodeo at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0odpC6_wcY
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller
REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go
Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions
TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable
REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin
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