EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts.  

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patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing   

Show Notes:   

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2  

Nuggets:  

4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave  

10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits  

13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box  

14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc)  

16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system  

21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute  

22:46 – How Jon structures his training week  

27:36 – An example training day, mock comps, and climbing with a weight vest  

31:40 – Indoor projecting days, and how Jon structures a six-week training block, and resting  

34:24 – Some of the testing Jon did with Steve Maisch  

37:14 – Building up your training capacity, why it’s ok to suck some days, and seeing improvement after resting at the end of a training block  

39:21 – Budgeting a week to relearn how to climb after getting strong  

40:32 – How Jon’s six-week training blocks fit into a year, and the value of a training partner  

42:58 – Forced time off, maintaining finger strength, and warming up with a hangboard in addition to climbing  

46:14 – Skin  

47:38 – Jon’s guidelines for warmup up  

50:20 – More about one-arm max hangs, how to progress the load, and where to start out  

54:54 – “Don’t go into training half-assed”  

55:45 – Hangboard repeaters, and how Jon structures a six-week block  

1:00:29 – Feeling like a boxer, and going to the gym to win  

1:02:19 – Jon’s thoughts on MoondBoard vs. Tension Board vs. Kilter Board vs. Beastmaker Board  

1:04:11 – Jon’s recommendations for my Hueco “training” trip  

1:07:39 – Project shopping, the relativity of grades, and the value of throwing yourself at something hard  

1:10:33 – Sean Rabatou and the value of projecting with other people  

1:12:59 – How Jon’s climbing schedule has changed over the years, and needing more rest days  

1:15:02 – FA of ‘King’s Landing’  

1:16:26 – Good food and haircuts  

1:17:26 – ‘The Abyss’ film  

1:18:23 – Recent and upcoming films from LT11  

1:20:01 – Gratitude for family and friends  

1:20:48 – What Jon hopes to accomplish with LT11, and with his own climbing