The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)
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