The 19th arrondissement of Paris (with a local)

Welcome back to "The 20 Kingdoms", a new season of The Earful Tower podcast. As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known as arrondissements. They may as well be kingdoms, at least for this podcast season, where I'll visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves it.

That's the whole concept. This isn't me recommending cafes or restaurants in different parts of town. This is true locals telling us about the soul of their kingdom and what they like to do there. The goal is to give you a very real look at each of these districts from a local's perspective. 

And for the 19th Kingdom, the second episode of the season, you'll meet Ben McPartland, the presenter and producer of the Talking France podcast, which is made by The Local France news website here in Paris. 

He loves this "genuine neighbourhood" of an arrondissement, and I met him at the edge of the Bassin de la Villette for a pint of beer, which he also loves. Here's what he had to say.

Mentioned in this episode: 

Drinks, Food & Canal Hangouts Paname Brewing Company

A floating brewery on the Bassin de la Villette with an easygoing, almost London-style pub atmosphere. Great beers, lively crowds, and one of the best sunset views over the canal.

41 Quai de la Loire, 75019
panamebrewingcompany.com

L'Atalante

Just up the Canal de l'Ourcq from Paname Brewing, this spot is known for its strong craft beer selection and excellent IPAs.

26 Quai de la Marne, 75019
latalante-paris.com

La Rotonde

Historic circular building at Stalingrad with restaurants, terraces, and drinks right on the edge of the canal basin. Ideal meeting point before exploring the neighborhood.

6–8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, 75019

Bars Inside Buttes-Chaumont

In summer, the park fills with tiny outdoor bars and terraces tucked among the hills and pathways — perfect for an afternoon drink after wandering the park.

Music, Film & Culture Philharmonie de Paris

One of Paris's great modern concert halls, famous for its dramatic silver architecture and panoramic rooftop terrace overlooking the city.

221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
philharmoniedeparis.fr

Le Zénith

Large live music venue inside Parc de la Villette hosting major touring artists and rock concerts.

211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
le-zenith.com

MK2 Cinemas

Twin cinemas facing each other across the canal. A favorite local spot for late-night screenings and films in original English versions.

7 Quai de la Loire & 14 Quai de la Seine, 75019
mk2.com

Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie

Massive science and industry museum loved by Parisian families, with exhibitions, immersive installations, and huge open spaces.

30 Avenue Corentin Cariou, 75019
cite-sciences.fr

On the Water Marin d'Eau Douce

Rent small electric boats and cruise the Canal de l'Ourcq yourself — especially beautiful from spring through early autumn.

37 Quai de la Seine, 75019
marindeaudouce.fr

Kayaks & Rowboats

Locals can often access free kayaking and rowing sessions around the Bassin de la Villette on weekends during warmer months.

Summer Canal Swimming

Every summer, sections of the Bassin de la Villette transform into open-air swimming areas, with races, floating pools, and seasonal events.

Parks & Walks Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

Wild, cinematic, and hilly — often called the most beautiful park in Paris. Expect cliffs, bridges, waterfalls, a lake, and incredible Sacré-Cœur views.

Parc de la Villette

Huge contemporary park blending architecture, green space, music venues, museums, and canal life into one sprawling cultural district.

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Music: Pres Maxson