In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.
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Private Q&As:
thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2
Nuggets:
00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As
05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?
11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’?
20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate?
23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?
29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable?
31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?
34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?
37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?
38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?
39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?
41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?
43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?
43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?
44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?
49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?
53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?
58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?
1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take?
1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?
1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?
1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?
1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?
1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?
1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
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