The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)
Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)
Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)
REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)
REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)
McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands
BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch
REWIND | Beth Rodden on Parenting, Identity and Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
Patty Law | From Belay Check to Gym Ownership
REWIND | Tommy Caldwell on Belief and Partnership
REMIX | PROCESS (featuring Alex Megos, Sam Elias, Arno Ilgner and Trevor Ragan)
Nominations for Most Inspiring Ascents and What’s New for 2023
BOARD MEETINGS | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym
BUILT OUTDOORS | Amy Skinner and Joan Chase of Wild Iris Mountain Sports
Caitlin Holmes | Body Composition for Climbers
Steven Jeffery | Climbing in the Disinformation Age
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