The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
Selective Learning | The Short-Sighted Approach, with Paul Corsaro
No Kings, No Way, with Brittany Hoffman
The Send is a Necessary Piece of the Process, with Lauren Abernathy and Nate Drolet
Success or Mastery?, with Ryley Rush
3 Reasons Why Soft Grades Matter, with Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard
Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior, with Al Bradley and Ziggy Samways
Intimidated?, with Sydney Smith
The #1 Reason Why Your Training Doesn’t Work, with Ryley Rush
The False Ceiling | Has Your Skill Set Limited Your Training Gains?, with Dale Wilson
You Aren’t Actually Training with Jess West
Train Wreck | 5 Ways to Derail Your Training, with Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard
You Didn’t Punt, with Tom O’Halloran and Amanda Watts
You Should Probably Just Try Harder, with Sarah and Taylor Frohmiller
Sandbagged | Are You Kidding Yourself?, with Nate Drolet
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Boulderers, with Devin Dabney
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers, with Nadya Suntay
How Your Friends are Holding You Back, with Sydney Smith and Lauren Abernathy
Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray, with Yasmeen Fowler
Don’t Squash the Banana | Commitment, with Yasmeen Fowler
Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk is Still Cheap, with Taylor and Sarah Frohmiller
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