Matt Pagan: On The Most Important Principle In Surfing - Holding and Releasing

In this week’s episode, we’re joined by Matt Pagan (@matt_pagan), a former pro surfer, impressive shaper, and surf coach who runs his own surf school. In the podcast, Matt highlights the significance of paddling and weight distribution in catching waves, along with tips on turning midlengths. So tune in and don’t miss this episode as we discuss the importance of finding the right board size and volume for your skill level!

 

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Background

03:01 Finding the Right Board Size

09:38 Mastering Paddling Technique

19:19 Understanding Volume and Lift

26:15 Balancing Technique and Wave Count

28:13 The Importance of Mentors and Coaches

28:42 Choosing the Right Surfboard

31:36 Riding Larger Boards in Big Waves

34:58 The Advantage of Being a Shaper and Surfer

38:18 Insights into Turning on Mid-Length Boards

50:40 The Significance of Paddling in Surfing

 

Subscribe for more interviews with pro surfers, coaches, shapers, and everyday surfers like Zeke Lau, Parker Coffin, Devon Howard, Dane Gudauskas, Ryan Lovelace, Leah Dawson, Matt Meola, Eric Arakawa, Dan Mann, Victor Bernardo, Matt Parker of Album Surf, Noel Salas of Surf n Show, Kassia Meador, Clayton of Ombe Surf, Dylan Lightfoot, Magnum Martinez, and more!

 

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