The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.
In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity
Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro and Topic Description
(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill
(6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill
(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?
(16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades
(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles
(19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time
(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot
(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?
(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments
(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles
(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall
(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills
(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills
(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes
(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects
(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits
(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King
(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills
(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?
(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?
(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement
Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)
Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)
Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)
REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)
REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)
McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands
BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch
REWIND | Beth Rodden on Parenting, Identity and Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
Patty Law | From Belay Check to Gym Ownership
REWIND | Tommy Caldwell on Belief and Partnership
REMIX | PROCESS (featuring Alex Megos, Sam Elias, Arno Ilgner and Trevor Ragan)
Nominations for Most Inspiring Ascents and What’s New for 2023
BOARD MEETINGS | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym
BUILT OUTDOORS | Amy Skinner and Joan Chase of Wild Iris Mountain Sports
Caitlin Holmes | Body Composition for Climbers
Steven Jeffery | Climbing in the Disinformation Age
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