Chris Sharma: His 5.16 Project, Offering Cash for Hard Sends, and How He Balances Power Vs. Endurance

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Elite climber Chris Sharma explores:

• A wild idea to offer cash incentives for sending hard outdoor climbs
• What happens when comp climbers get psyched on rock
• Why being a busy dad has improved certain aspects of his climbing
• Details on his super steep next level 5.16 (??) project
• Knowing when to walk away from a project
• Being motivated by grades can be good sometimes
• The art of not giving a f*ck
• How he alleviates send pressure
• The intensely beautiful and unique experience of DWS
• How YOU can climb with him and Magnus Midtbø

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. 
• Altitude Climbing: Join legends Chris Sharma and Magnus Midtbø for an unforgettable deep water soloing retreat in Mallorca, where all of the logistics (food, lodging, boat guides, etc.) are taken care of for you. Dream trip! Visit altitudeclimbing.com/events to learn more and apply today.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

 

00:00 Introduction and Welcome

00:45 Guest Introduction: Chris Sharma

01:17 Chris Sharma's Current Projects

01:42 Deep Water Soloing and Retreats

02:27 Host's Personal Update

03:35 Chris Sharma's Climbing History

04:19 Discussion on Climbing Routes and Challenges

08:52 Competitive Climbing vs. Rock Climbing

20:06 Balancing Climbing and Family Life

27:03 Maintaining Climbing Fitness and Strength

31:12 Exploring the Appeal of Bouldering

31:36 The Steep Cave Project

32:15 Inspiration and Progression in Climbing

33:51 Switching Gears and New Challenges

35:34 The Physicality of Santa Ana

37:14 Balancing Fun and Hard Work

39:08 The Role of Inspiration in Climbing

40:29 Fizzy Vantage Nutrition

41:53 Personal Climbing Goals and Reflections

51:03 Climbing as a Profession

54:51 The Joy of Deep Water Soloing

01:02:49 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!