The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)
Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)
Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)
REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)
REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)
McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands
BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch
REWIND | Beth Rodden on Parenting, Identity and Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
Patty Law | From Belay Check to Gym Ownership
REWIND | Tommy Caldwell on Belief and Partnership
REMIX | PROCESS (featuring Alex Megos, Sam Elias, Arno Ilgner and Trevor Ragan)
Nominations for Most Inspiring Ascents and What’s New for 2023
BOARD MEETINGS | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym
BUILT OUTDOORS | Amy Skinner and Joan Chase of Wild Iris Mountain Sports
Caitlin Holmes | Body Composition for Climbers
Steven Jeffery | Climbing in the Disinformation Age
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Cal’s Week in Review
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast
Outside Podcast