The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement Through Shaping and Setting
Eric Hörst | Growing Older, Stronger, Better
BREAKING BETA | Can We Measure Energy System Contribution to Climbing?
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Ways Climbers Are Holding Themselves Back
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
TAPED TIPS | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
TAPED TIPS | Are You Always Performing?
Coaching Mentorship Scholarships Now Available!
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
BOARD MEETINGS | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode
BOARD MEETINGS | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
HIP HIP TAUGHT ME EVERYTHING | A Tribe Called Quest Taught Me Authenticity
It’s Been a Long Time, I Shouldn’t Have Left You.
Welcome to Power Company Climbing
PSA | Is Your Climbing Chalk Ruining the Rock?
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