The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
Mario Stanley | Coaching Better Humans
Taylor Fragomeni | Routesetting and Coaching from the Female Perspective
A Letter to 2021
BOARD MEETINGS | Stop Blaming the Routesetters
Eric Jerome featuring Max Zolotukhin | What Makes a Great Boulder?
BOARD MEETINGS | Bouldering Tactics: Part 3
BOARD MEETINGS | Bouldering Tactics: Part 2
BOARD MEETINGS | Bouldering Tactics: Part 1
Brandon Belcher | Operating This Body Is Dangerous
Melissa Utomo | Sends and Suffers
Joslynn Corredor | Coaching for a Cause
Paul Piana | Big Walls and Big Dreams
Mario Stanley & Dynell Hunter | Black Joy
BOARD MEETINGS | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 6 Training Myths
Mr. Clipping Chains | Financial Independence
Devin Dabney | Show Up As You Are
Genevive Walker | Black Voices Matter
Brown Girls Climb | A Starting Point
BOARD MEETINGS | Granny Shot: Do You Follow the Crowd?
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