Sicily: Signora Rosalba Lo Greco

Her name is Rosalba Lo Greco and she cooks for Barone Pietro Beneventano at his agriturismo, or farmhouse inn, Case del Feudo, outside Siracusa. She learned to cook, Rosalba says, from watching her grandmother. My mother was a terrible cook, she told us, but every summer she sent me to spend three months with my grandmother in Piazza Armerina and she was a great cook. I’m passionate about good food—I love to cook, I love to feed people. To cook just for the sake of cooking, no—they say what I cook is pretty good, for me it’s just normal. And they’re the smallest secrets that make the difference—for instance, the eggplant in a caponata, it should be a little crunchy, it should have character...

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