Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1)Hi all, Love learning from y’all, though your podcast has cost me a bit of money since I hear about some great things that I HAVE to buy!
However, my spouse says that we are running out of room in our tiny 16.5 x 8.75 foot garage and has put their foot down on a thickness planer. They pretty much use a lathe and other machinery to help support their lathe work (benchtop bandsaw, sander, dri...
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1)Hi all, Love learning from y’all, though your podcast has cost me a bit of money since I hear about some great things that I HAVE to buy!
However, my spouse says that we are running out of room in our tiny 16.5 x 8.75 foot garage and has put their foot down on a thickness planer. They pretty much use a lathe and other machinery to help support their lathe work (benchtop bandsaw, sander, drill press, job site table saw), and have no stated need for a thickness planer. I am interested in moving more into furniture and cutting boards, so I thought a thickness planer, and possibly one day a jointer, would be helpful in my woodworking. I found plans for a jig that I could use my router on but didn’t know if this was a sufficient substitution. Have any of you used such a jig for planing and if so, how did you find it compares to the thickness planer? Also, do you have any suggestions to efficiently plane or joint wood without a planer or jointer? Thanks in advance for your help. Adrien
2) I see and hear people referring to how many hours they have in a particular project - 50 hours for this, 100 for that, etc. and so on. More so for people doing commission work than just personal stuff, I guess, but it got me wondering... how do you generally figure the hours for a project? Do you keep track of your shop time, or is it more of a 'best guess'? Do you count stock prep? Tool sharpening during the course of a project? Building jigs necessary for the project? Time spent waiting between coats of finish? How deep in the weeds do you go on this, and how does it differ between 'individual' projects that you do at home, vs. say projects done at work (in Guy's case)? Thanks! Monte
3) Two things.
#1 – for the listeners… there seems to be only 58 Patreon members. This is a great resource and I hope more of them contribute, as $5/month is a bargain.
#2 – for the gentlemen, can you please talk about when you do your edge details in relation to sanding. For example, if you’re doing a small chamfer with a block plane, I would think this happens after all sanding is complete. But if you’re looking to blend in a top and bottom roundover, I assume you do this before any sanding, but at the risk of losing some symmetry. Look forward to your thoughts on this topic. Thanks, Glen
Guy
1) Hey guys, recently found love the show. I started at the beginning and am nearly caught up, but forgive me if this has been discussed already. I'm planning to build my wife a very large craft desk/work area. She wants it to be 'U' shaped so she can rotate in place and complete each operation of her projects. Due to the shape and size, I naturally want to assemble this in a manner that it is easy to disassemble to allow for future relocation. Aside from basic, but strategically located, screws or bolts for assembling each section to one another, have you guys used any sort of "knockdown" hardware. I have used connector bolts on cheap throw-away furniture pieces before, but not on pieces that I have built. I can foresee some difficulty in accurately locating the various holes to be drilled when using that type of system. Any thoughts on products and/or approach for such an application?
Ps. I have seen a couple of neat options using the Domino and Lamelo biscuit joiner. I have a Dewalt biscuit joiner, but neither of the two other tools are currently at my disposal. Perhaps this is my excuse to invest in the Domino? Thanks and keep up the good work! Jason
2)Hey guys. I really enjoy the podcast. Thanks for sharing your expertise with the woodworking world.
I've decided to upgrade my sharpening media by moving away from Norton water stones and purchasing two of the DMT Duo Sharp diamond plates (220/325 mesh and 600/1200 mesh) and the 6000 grit Shapton Glass Stone for final honing. It's my understanding the ceramic on the glass stone will require flattening but not nearly as often as the Norton stones which I flatten after every use. Can you tell me how to best determine when my 6000 grit glass stone will need flattening especially since it will be used primarily only for final honing? Also, can the DMT diamond plates be used for flattening the glass stone? If so, which grit/mesh do you recommend. Thanks again and keep up the great work. Jack Francis - Geneva IL
3) Question mainly for Guy: ive heard you talk about your love for the Incra 5000 many times. I have one myself for a few years. One part i wanna pick your brain on is how you claim to be able to square it up in seconds. I will preface this by saying that i hope i am missing something in my own experience. But I find i still need to do 5 cut methods for mine every now and then because when the fence gets bumped... you can no longer trust the registration marks until its squared again. Aside from this, theres also so much play in the outer end of the fence before you lock it down so how do you ever truly trust the angle? I find myself only setting it to 90 and still occasionally find its misaligned. I wouldnt dare trust it for angles like 45 etc because of the play of the arm and the other factors. What am i doing wrong? (I have made sure everything is tight) - tree of life woodworking
