Our guest today is someone that I have followed since I first heard about him when I was 25 years old. Somewhere I came across this cool hour long surf video and I used to watch 2-3 times a week as a sort of meditation/visualization process picturing myself living somewhere where I could surf on a regular basis, and enjoy the beach lifestyle. One day, I was looking up more cool surf videos on YouTube and came across a video of this guy that would surf the biggest and most difficult waves anyone could surf. And I remember him saying in one of his videos on how he said he felt called to the waves,...
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