The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement Through Shaping and Setting
Eric Hörst | Growing Older, Stronger, Better
BREAKING BETA | Can We Measure Energy System Contribution to Climbing?
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Ways Climbers Are Holding Themselves Back
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
TAPED TIPS | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
TAPED TIPS | Are You Always Performing?
Coaching Mentorship Scholarships Now Available!
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
BOARD MEETINGS | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode
BOARD MEETINGS | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
HIP HIP TAUGHT ME EVERYTHING | A Tribe Called Quest Taught Me Authenticity
It’s Been a Long Time, I Shouldn’t Have Left You.
Welcome to Power Company Climbing
PSA | Is Your Climbing Chalk Ruining the Rock?
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