EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

2024-03-14

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Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers. In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coach...

Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers.

In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.

Find Taylor online at:

The Beta Angel Project

International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

Research mentioned in the episode:

Austrian Research Paper and Write Up

Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up

Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper

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BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing

BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?

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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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📚CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching?

(3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed

(10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable?

(12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research

(13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory

(15:37) Speed Climbing

(19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing

(30:32) Thematic Movement Learning