TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays

2021-12-15

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answered and have guidance on how to build out a training program for your...

About Matt Pincus

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here.

Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answered and have guidance on how to build out a training program for yourself. Consider this offering as a gift for the climbers in your life, or for yourself if you’re not ready to commit to a coach full-time.

>>>Get an Hour of Coaching with Matt

Rest – How Much Is Too Much and How to Navigate the Holidays

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about rest. We’ve been getting a lot of questions from our clients who are scared to take off any time from climbing over the holidays for fear that they’ll lose all of the gains they’ve worked so hard for.

Matt describes 3 client scenarios with different circumstances and the guidance he gave about rest:

A person who just came off a performance cycle and is a little tweaky and is going home to visit family for a week.
A person who has a climbing trip coming up 2 weeks after a trip home to visit family for a week.
A person who doesn’t have a climbing trip coming up and is going home to visit family for 10 days.

We give our own anecdotal stories about whether or not resting has hurt or helped us in the past, and we talk about professional climbers’ use of long and short rest periods.

We also discuss what the research says about how long it takes to actually lose strength and endurance during taper and off-season periods in other sports.

Enjoy!

Episode Details

My story about sending after 5 days completely off
How Matt is guiding his clients during the holidays
Expectations for when you come back from a full rest period
What to do if you really want to keep training while you’re on vacation and only have minimal equipment
What the research says about how much rest it takes to see declines in performance

Show Links

Do an hour coaching session with Matt
Bouldering Program (Levels 1-3) to help you work your way up the grades
Work with Matt as your coach
Work with Neely as your nutritionist
Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com
Research Mentioned
- https://greatist.com/fitness/how-long-lose-your-fitness#nonathletes
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17762369/
- https://www.pnas.org/content/107/34/15111