That's Not Real Climbing

Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting

Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.Guest links:Kiter’s WebsiteJackie’s InstagramPro Climbing League WebsiteKilter YoutubeReference links:Underrated holdThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter 13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter?22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team?28:46 - What made setting different for PCL32:09 - How to get separation36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy?41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?!43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors51:16 - How boulder changeover worked 55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown58:24 - Different competition strategies1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup?1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup?1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future?1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder?1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks?1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out? 1:22:30 - Underrated hold?1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!

Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing

Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters!Guest links:Mickael’s InstagramReference links:Climbing with Jonathan Sin VideoThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight30:51 - Why he still chose climbing34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC? 38:33 - The goal: be rich45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training1:06:12 - How to work on your technique1:11:47 - The secret to French slab1:14:28 - Why he trains alone 1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing1:25:44 - His future in climbing?1:31:01 - New climbing goal1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up?1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like?1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured?1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael

Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams

Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics.Guest links:Mo’s InstagramMo’s WebsiteReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym3:28 - The 'stump' impairment7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump 22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 202730:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping"38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics?48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump?52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory?1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story?1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors 1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo

Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??

Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches.Guest links:Rachel’s InstagramRachel’s YoutubeReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance13:46 - Becoming a coach15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?50:17 - Climbing goals53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes?1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches?1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel

Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!

Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.Guest links:Emma’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:11 - My annual stretching resolution5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?17:02 - Climbing styles20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o31:40 - Being a taller climber32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella39:47 - Season expectations?42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?46:45 - Outdoor Climbing47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities50:29 - Trying to balance training with school53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at?55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last?59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup?1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups?1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet?1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma