A voyage into the world’s most contested waterway

Just 140 miles off the coast of the Philippines’ largest island is a sparkling blue lagoon that is rich with fish and minerals. This ring of reefs and rocks is called Scarborough Shoal. For centuries, it has been a place of open passageway and connection, drawing fishermen from all over the region.

It’s a place that captain Jory Aguian, student activist Mathew Silverio and the rest of a small Philippine flotilla of wooden boats are determined to reach. They hope to follow in the steps of generations before them and to show solidarity with the Philippine fishermen who have managed to remain at Scarborough. However, getting there is complicated.

Scarborough Shoal is in the South China Sea – a waterway that is claimed in part by at least six countries and has become one of the most geopolitically tense places in the world. With its geographic proximity, the Philippines views Scarborough as theirs, but China also claims the shoal. In recent years, as the Philippines has tried to stress its claim to this waterway, China has doubled down on its efforts to maintain its security interests in the South China Sea. This has led to escalating tensions and confrontations, with Chinese ships using water cannons on Philippine boats and flying fighter jets overhead.

And so the question for those on board this small Philippine flotilla is: Can they do this, can they achieve their goal of making it to Scarborough? How far are they willing to go, to risk their lives?

Today on “Post Reports,” we embed with the Post’s Southeast Asia bureau chief, Rebecca Tan, on a voyage into these contested waterways. Yasmin Coles and Martin San Diego contributed to this story.

Today’s show was produced by Elana Gordon. It was edited by Peter Bresnan with help from Reena Flores. It was mixed by Sean Carter. Special thanks to Alan Sipress.

Subscribe to The Washington Post here.