The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.
There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:
We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you’re a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!
I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)
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