The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions
TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable
REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
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