In episode 274, Kestrel welcomes Michelle Zhu, the CEO & cofounder of Huue, to the show. In an effort to replace toxic chemical dyes in apparel, Huue are developing biosynthetic dyes — their initial focus is to provide an alternative to synthetic indigo.
“We are creating a biosynthetic solution that is a one-to-one drop-in replacement into the textile supply chain. We’re creating these bio-identicals that can minimize the footprint of production of these dyes and pigments, but without disrupting the supply chain process that is required to make the authentic look and feel of denim that everybody knows and loves.”
-Michelle Zhu
Are you familiar with biosynthetics? If so, do you understand what they are or how they operate? So often terms like this get thrown around in the *sustainability* space, without a lot of context or definitions. They are assumed to fall into the good box or the bad box, when yet again – there is a lot more information needed to understand the bigger picture.
So, here’s the super basics – biosynthetics are made of renewable materials, instead of being petroleum based. We often hear about them from a fiber stance, so fabrics made up of biopolymers from corn or sugar or other ingredients. But on this week’s show, we’re diving into more on how biosynthetics are being used for textile dyeing.
Today, the majority of our clothes are colored with synthetic dyes. If we look back, the first synthetic dye was accidentally discovered in the 1850s when an 18-year old chemist was searching for a treatment for malaria. And since then, they’ve gradually taken over due to their speed and efficacy.
But take indigo – the color that we align with denim. Today, every kilogram of synthetic indigo produced uses 75x the amount of petroleum. And it involves the use of dangerous chemicals like benzene, formaldehyde, and sodamide.
This week’s guest cofounded a company that’s leveraging biosynthetics to address the extreme toxicity across the textile dye industry. They’ve started with indigo blue, and are building one-to-one solutions that can be inserted directly into the current manufacturing infrastructure.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“This Melinda Gates-backed biotech startup is growing bacteria that make sustainable dye for denim”, article in Fast Company
"How These Founders Are Detoxifying the Denim Industry--and Saving the Planet", article in Inc.
"Using synthetic biology platforms to clean up indigo dye-making", article in Axios
"Best Inventions of 2021 - Huue: Blue Jeans Go Green", article in TIME
Huue’s Website >
Follow Huue on Instagram >
S04 Episode 180 | HUSTON TEXTILE COMPANY + BRINGING MANUFACTURING BACK TO AMERICA
S04 Episode 179 | FAIR TRADE USA + SHOPPER RECOGNITION OF THE LABEL TODAY
S04 Episode 178 | LOLI + ZERO WASTE BEAUTY FROM FOOD WASTE
S04 Episode 177 | NEW YORK TIMES STYLE + SUSTAINABILITY WITH ELIZABETH PATON
S04 Episode 176 | ANACT TOWELS + THE POWER OF HEMP
S04 Episode 175 | ELIZA SLOANE JEWELRY, SCALING AS A MAKER + ULTIMATE CREATIVE FREEDOM
S04 Episode 174 | TONLÉ, ZERO WASTE + MAKING IN CAMBODIA
S04 Episode 173 | FRANK AND OAK + LISTENING TO SHOPPERS TO DRIVE CREATION
S04 Episode 172 | NOBLE CARRIAGE + HOW SUSTAINABLE SHIFTS CAN START WITH MOMS
S04 Episode 171 | THE PSYCHOLOGY OF FASHION + WHY WE WEAR WHAT WE WEAR
S04 Episode 170 | SOURCERY THE LABEL AND SILK YOU CAN MACHINE WASH + DRY
S04 Episode 169 | TRIARCHY ON SUSTAINABLE DENIM, MINDFULNESS + BALANCE
S04 Episode 168 | THREDUP + THE MASSIVE RISE OF RESALE
S04 Episode 167 | THE LOVE IS PROJECT + PAYING IT FORWARD
S04 Episode 166 | MARIELLE ELIZABETH + SLOW FASHION FOR ALL
S04 Episode 165 | PACT + GROWING COTTON BETTER, WITHOUT THE GROSS STUFF
S04 Episode 164 | MADE TRADE + ETHICALLY ELEVATED GOODS FOR DESIGN LOVERS
S04 Episode 163 | ALICE ALEXANDER + INCLUSIVITY FOR ALL BODIES
S04 Episode 162 | SARAH SPELLINGS OF THE CUT ON GOING FAST FASHION FREE
S04 Episode 161 | THE SUSTAINABLE FASHION FORUM + BUILDING COMMUNITY
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