The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that.
While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have.
So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you’ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:
We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you’re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you’re just not consistently climbing 5.12’s and you’d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12’s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you!
Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to break into 5.12 climbing. She will do 4 90-minute zoom calls starting January 17th all about what holds people back from sending 5.12 consistently and exactly what you can do to break your 5.11 plateau.
The cost is $147 (2-payment option available), and you’ll get all of the recordings of the zoom calls plus a bonus recorded coaching session with one of the participants.
TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment
TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers
TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes
TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy's 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries
TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us
TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports
TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c
TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d
TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route
TBP 086 :: How Paige Claassen Trained for Roof Climbing in Flatanger, Norway
TBP 085 :: Esther Smith - Neck and Back Injuries in Climbers
TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
TBP 083 :: Maureen Beck Climbs 5.11+ with One Hand
TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's
TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions
TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan
TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send
TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers
TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O'Grady
TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury
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