This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons!
*The full version is 1:34:15.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Tyler’s Other Episodes:
EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index
EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt
EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
EP 08: Kristin Yurdin — Building a Restaurant, Redpointing 5.14a at age 42, and Advice for Shorter Climbers
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream
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