In episode 294, Kestrel welcomes Jeff Garner, the designer behind Prophetik, to the show. A romantic visual artist, pioneer and unconventional designer, Jeff’s sustainably-minded label Prophetik is focused on changing our perception of luxury.
“It’s interesting how everybody in their different segment of market just want to do the cheapest ingredient because they don’t expect the buyer to buy it, cause it’s more. So, it’s this idea that if you go into a design, and just try to make it the cheapest way possible, so that you can turn around and sell it for the most money, and nobody wants to spend extra to make something better. And I’m like — where have we gone in a society that we don’t want to carve our stone for our patio, let’s say … we don’t want to carve the wood to do our door.” -Jeff
This week’s guest was the FIRST sustainability-focused designer I discovered that I got really excited about. Over the years, he has dressed notable stars including Fleetwood Mac, Miley Cyrus, Cheryl Crow and Taylor Swift, among others.
A little background – I started a blog called Make Fashion Fair back in 2010. I had just finished my internship at People Tree in London, and was trying to find my voice in this space. My 4th blog post on February 20th, 2010, was titled – “elephants, ethics, and fashion”.
It featured two creatives I was drawn to at the time – musician Trevor Hall and this week’s guest. They both had this random connection to elephants and painting. Trevor Hall had a music video where he is getting painted by elephants, and this week’s guest had a collection that featured prints painted by elephants.
So – with that in mind, getting the chance to have this week’s conversation feels very circular.
In addition to continuing to challenge what fashion can look like on the runway and at a luxury level, this week’s guest is also behind a new documentary series that uncovers the fashion industry’s toxic secrets and highlights the importance of making and wearing nontoxic clothing.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“elephants, ethics and fashion”, Kestrel’s blog post from back in 2010 that feautures Jeff
An article from Choc & Juice that highlights more information on the Singer Studies that Jeff mentions
“My mom passed away from breast cancer, so I’m a firm believer that nylon and polyester bras are a huge part of breast cancer. Unfortunately, you cannot pinpoint and say this particular chemical in this bra caused the breast cancer, but it does have those toxins that are carcinogenic in it that have been proven, and research proves it, that do cause it.” -Jeff (23:12)
“Chemicals from textiles to skin: an in vitro permeation study of benzothiazole”, published study that backs up Jeff’s theory of toxins entering the epidermis or skin through textiles / dyes
Prophetik
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S06 Episode 279 | Jono Salfield of Afends on DIY hemp farming for textiles & why hemp rules (from both a farming & carbon-capture lens)
S06 Episode 278 | Why we must approach waste holistically & how Material Library Of India is reimagining & documenting neglected materials while advocating for systems change
S06 Episode 277 | Questioning how we *value* garments & respecting the limits of partnership across fashion with Jesus Herrera
S06 Episode 276 | Fashion psychology, contextualizing our buying behaviors amidst today's *speed* & how shopping is not equal to happiness
S06 Episode 275 | The Or Foundation's take on their recent agreement with SHEIN, how these grant funds are/will be used within the Kantamanto community & extended producer responsibility (EPR)
S06 Episode 274 | What are biosynthetic dyes & could they replace the toxic petroleum-heavy ingredients in today's predominant indigo garment dye?
S06 Episode 273 | Kesiena Onosigho on slow art as a tool for liberation and why sustainability isn't passive – it's something you live
S06 Episode 272 | Revealing lipstick's dirty little secrets & questioning the beauty industry's lack of regulation with Angela Weinberg of Kolorete
S06 Episode 271 | Anuj Sharma on button masala and questioning cut & sew as the primary way to join garments together
S06 Episode 270 | Doctoral candidate Timnit Kefela on the rise of plastic fashion & the journey of microplastics that come with it
S06 Episode 269 | Ngozi Okaro of Custom Collaborative on fashion cooperatives & how they can shift power dynamics, counter overproduction, and support local economies
S06 Episode 268 | Venetia La Manna on the need to *Remember Who Made Them* (our clothes) & whether we should buy fast fashion secondhand
S06 Episode 267 | Sally Fox on breeding naturally colored organic cotton
S06 Episode 266 | The challenges of navigating supply chain minimums while intentionally building regional systems with Leah of Wol Hide
S06 Episode 265 | Summer Dean (@ClimateDiva) on slowing down influence & building community instead of obsessing about analytics
S06 Episode 264 | Greenwashing in fashion and the need for mandatory measures & regulation
S06 Episode 263 | Dr. Sandra Niessen on *sacrifice zones* & the layers of erasure in fashion
S06 Episode 262 | Roland Geyer on why we should we be focusing on LABOR, not MATERIALS in the quest to reduce fashion's environmental impact
S06 Episode 261 | Can fashion and degrowth coexist, and specifically — do high heels exist in a degrowth world?
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