Max Ayrton - ”Alternative” Climbing Moves Are SO In

Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.

Guest links:

Max's Instagram

Reference links:

Bern Women's M3

CWIF Cartwheel Boulder

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background

7:00 - World climbing setting levels

10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked

15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?

18:24 - What is the perfect round?

22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?

24:19 - Forerunning process

29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves

34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!

38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors

42:34 - Zones vs tops point change

44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse

52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!

54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?

59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?

1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?

1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?

1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max