Justin Bowen’s first time scaling walls and new routes was in a climbing gym during a friend’s birthday party. It wasn’t until high school, driven by persistent memories of that experience, that Bowen started climbing on a more consistent basis.
Eventually, while attending college in Arizona, Bowen planned his first trip to Yosemite, where he jumped right onto the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. He quickly realized just how much he still had to learn about building anchors and placing gear. A few years ago, Bowen met friend and mentor Mark Jenkins, who he says shared a wealth of knowledge based on his decades of climbing around the world. Bowen still climbs with and learns from Jenkins on a regular basis.
In this episode, Bowen reflects on how he manages fear—both in the mountains, and in his day-to-day life. He talks about being a PhD student, and the terrifying prospect of only having two-to-three weeks off a year to pursue climbing objectives after finishing school. And he speaks to the striking similarities between the Tetons and Mt. Kenya. Tales from Bowen and Jenkins’ Mt. Kenya expedition are featured in Alpinist 83.
This episode is brought to you by the American Alpine Club
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Host: Abbey Collins
Guest: Justin Bowen
Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
Graham Zimmerman's Balancing Act
The Many Facets of Len Necefer
Climbing and Journalism with Lauren DeLaunay Miller
Training for the New Anything with Steve House
Unpacking Packing with Sarah Pickman
Writing and Routes with David Smart
Aiming for the Bushes with Alan Rousseau
Climbing for Change: Caroline Gleich
Talking Schist with Andrea Charest
Connected to Place: Sarah Audsley
Beyond Success and Failure: Young Hoon Oh
The Art of Playing: Babsi Vigl
Heart of the Sierra: Doug Robinson
Creativity and Climbing: Nikki Smith
Of Peaks and Parenting: Majka Burhardt
Braving New Worlds: Steph Davis
Honoring Mountains and Mentors: Clint Helander
Dreaming of Imaginary Peaks: Katie Ives
A Life of Adventure and Positive Impact: Timmy O’Neill
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