In episode 242, Kestrel welcomes Nishanth Chopra, the founder of Oshadi Collective, to the show, alongside Mairin Wilson, the head of regenerative practices at Christy Dawn. A regenerative farm and textile production community based in Erode, India, Oshadi Collective has been working in partnership with Christy Dawn to develop and release farm-to-closet garments.
"It's about connection, connecting to everything you do and having an alternative way of looking at things. Whether it be a relationship with another being or another person or a relationship with the plants or a relationship with any aspect — anything that you interact with in the supply chain. So, when we talk about agriculture, it’s about the soil, it’s about ecosystems, it’s about the biodiversity, it’s about the animals. You know, it’s not just about *not* adding chemicals — it's about recreating something which we have destroyed for years and years and years." -Nishanth
The word regenerative has been popping up in mainstream fashion conversations more regularly over the last year or so – it’s been written about in Vogue, Marie Claire, Women’s Wear Daily, and more. But a lot of the methods and concepts used in regenerative agriculture are not new at all – they're rooted in circular practices cultivated by Indigenous people over thousands of years. And they are tied to ancient practices for the cultivation of fiber and beyond.
Unfortunately, as we see over and over again, the often whitewashed sustainability movement has a reputation of taking ideas or practices from Black and Brown Indigenous communities, without giving credit or acknowledgement, and then finding new ways to repackage and commercialize them.
As I observe the word regenerative begin to infiltrate the fashion space, it’s key to ask more questions about what this concept actually means to these brands, and what the behind-the-scenes in the supply chain really looks like for them.
On this week’s show, we explore some of these ideas with Nishanth of Oshadi Collective and Mairin of Christy Dawn. The two have been working closely over the last two years in a distinct partnership — they have been working to build a new fashion system, one that is hyper-localized and regenerative, and that has now produced farm-to-closet garments.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“It’s really amazing when you create these regenerative systems and these systems — as Nishanth said, of trust and mutually beneficial relationships — I feel like, although it is a lot of hard work and everyone’s doing their part, it feels easy because you’re doing your part but then you’re also benefiting from it.” -Mairin
“With regenerative, you start to have a different outlook and you think them as you, just another version of you. You treat them how you’d treat yourself — anything you interact with like soils, insects, animals, the people you work with — it’s a respectful relationship with everything you interact with. That’s what regenerative is for me.” -Nishanth
“I just really want to make sure I play my part — you know, I can’t change the world or you know, I can’t change big systems but I can play my part to create something small, and if that kind of leaves an impact, and it can be these ripples it starts. And I can take it to a certain distance — someone after me will take it to a slightly bigger distance hopefully, and it keeps going on. I won’t be able to accomplish this in one lifetime — not anyone — because it’s been happening for such a long time, but eventually the goal is completely change the system and create a system that is fair, respectful.” -Nishanth
Peeling Back The Layers Of The Green Revolution, episode on Art Of Citizenry podcast that has been very helpful to Kestrel when contextualizing some of the history connected to agriculture / fashion in India
Green Dreamer episode featuring Nishanth — episode 307 — that Kestrel mentions
Follow Oshadi Collective on Instagram >
Follow Christy Dawn on Instagram >
This week's episode is brought to you by Gem - an app and web platform that brings all online vintage and secondhand clothing and accessories into one search.
Learn more & download the app at Gem.app!
S05 Episode 260 | What are you latching onto? A special edition recap — highlighting what we learned on season 5 to take us intentionally into season 6
S05 Episode 259 | Georgina Johnson's book "The Slow Grind" & the inevitability of degrowth in fashion
S05 Episode 258 | Aja Barber on how the *affordability* story is fueling a messed up narrative & why we need a culture shift
S05 Episode 257 | Farai Simoyi of The Narativ on the need for safe spaces where global designers can be seen, valued, and heard & educating the next generation of fashion's leaders
S05 Episode 256 | Shilla Kim-Parker of Thrilling on the digitization of secondhand & supporting small business
S05 Episode 255 | Gee's Bend Quilters: the original purveyors of sustainability & exploring the meaning of an equitable collaboration with Mary Margaret Pettway & Greg Lauren
S05 Episode 254 | Johnathan Hayden on using a brand as an experiment, questioning ownership over one's trash & how augmented reality could impact sustainability in fashion
S05 Episode 253 | Advocating for the U.S. to appoint a fashion czar, what are The Green Guides and more on the intersections of politics & fashion
S05 Episode 252 | Frankie Collective on reimagining supply chains for *upcycling* & embracing sustainability and streetwear through reworked design
S05 Episode 251 | CiscoSews on the freedom in nonbinary design & experimentations with upcycling
S05 Episode 250 | Natalie Shehata on why *diversity* is tokenistic and advocating for holistic inclusion
S05 Episode 249 | Isiah Magsino on fashion's current obsession with *genderless* and paying respect to queer & trans communities who have been stepping out of the binary forever
S05 Episode 248 | Ocean Rose on botanical dyeing, sustainability as a collection of idiosyncrasies & the art of slowing down
S05 Episode 247 | Christian Allaire of Vogue on the deep meaning behind Indigenous ribbon work & fashion as a means to reclaim culture
S05 Episode 246 | Nia Thomas on building an autobiographical brand & breaking up with plug and play approaches to doing fashion
S05 Episode 245 | Eshita Kabra-Davies of By Rotation on fashion rental, making the sharing economy personal & challenging the pressure of *newness*
S05 Episode 244 | Alyssa Beltempo on creativity over consumption & shifting the narrative away from placing *all* responsibility on the consumer
S05 Episode 243 | Julia Perez of Jae and Leona on separating self care from capitalism, launching a skincare line during the pandemic & advocating for skincare as liberation
S05 Episode 241 | Reimagining waste as a resource, creativity's battle against commerce & the importance of welcoming financial sustainability into the larger conversation
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