Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more.
*If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one!
Check out Petzl!
petzl.com
Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!
Check out Feals!
feals.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone
Nuggets:
0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood
0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves
0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin
0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better
0:18:39 – Being obsessive
0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day
0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come
0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more
0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym
0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed
0:33:08 – The Bend phase
0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching
0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes
0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid
0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid
0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to
0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment
0:52:25 – Quantum leaps
0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing gym
0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox
0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras)
1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone)
1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall
1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso
1:11:09 – Tough Strips
1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box
1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs
1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.”
1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners
1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers
1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists
1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock
1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V10
1:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos)
2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome
2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs
2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy
2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30?
2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons
2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD)
2:14:37 – Doing more training after 30
2:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift)
2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had taken earlier? (mastery, and being a barbarian)
2:20:44 – Patron question from Christopher: How do you handle it mentally if you start regressing on a project? (setting early goals for a session)
2:22:33 – Going into projects with inertia, and knowing when to walk away
2:25:03 – Why Jesse is moving to Leavenworth
2:26:37 – Using a yoga block to train for narrow compression moves on a V12
2:29:47 – Jesse’s thoughts on what it would take for him to climb V14
2:35:47 – Why Jesse and I are thankful for one another, and finding a climbing partner who will cut through your bullshit
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
The Bear Archery Podcast
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast
Live Wild with Remi Warren