In episode 300, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Lisa Erdle, the Director of Science and Research at 5 Gyres, to the show. A microplastics researcher and lifelong sailor, Lisa is passionate about keeping waterways clean for wildlife and people.
“A load of laundry can shed anywhere in the range of hundreds of thousands to millions of microfibers, depending on how you wash and what you wash. There can be 850 times more microfibers shed from a high-shedding item compared to a low, so the textile design really matters. And washing isn’t the only source of microfibers to the environment — we know there’s also dryers, carpets and upholstery, cigarette butts, wet wipes, there’s quite a long list. But the one that we know the most about, and one we have a solution for, is our washing machines.” -Dr. Lisa
Today, we hear a lot about microfibers in our oceans and waterways, and how they are an issue we’re facing. There are consistent news articles out there about it. At the same time, the narrative is generally very much aligned with polyester and synthetics and you know, the plastic side of things.
But as this week’s guest reminds us – all fabrics shed microfibers. And it’s important to note that when fibers shed from our clothing, it’s not just the base fiber that is of concern – whether it’s cotton or polyester, a natural fiber or a synthetic material – these fibers are generally also carrying some sort of chemical cocktail (a mix of dyes and treatments and coatings that are added to the fabric throughout the supply chain).
You may be asking – how are all these fibers ending up in our waterways? According to researchers, the biggest culprits are washing machines. But these microfibers can also shed from dryers and even simply from walking around throughout the day.
All of these layers make understanding the impacts of microfibers on people and the planet very complex. But as much as we don’t know, we also know enough from a scientific lens, to act. There are solutions out there that can at least help slow down the rate of microfibers released into the environment.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“The Widespread Environmental Footprint of Indigo Denim Microfibers from Blue Jeans”, study Kestrel mentions
“Capturing microfibers – marketed technologies reduce microfiber emissions from washing machines”, research paper that Dr. Lisa contributed to
“Washing Machine Filters Reduce Microfiber Emissions: Evidence From a Community-Scale Pilot in Parry Sound, Ontario”, research paper that Dr. Lisa contributed to
The Microfibre Consortium, organization that Dr. Lisa mentions
Info about AB 1628 (California filtration bill)
“The research on microfibers shows that used clothing typically sheds less than new clothing, poorly constructed garments shed more microfibers than well constructed garments. So, buying used when possible, or buying higher quality garments and washing less, washing cold — these are all things that can reduce your microfiber footprint.” -Dr. Lisa (40:58)
5 Gyres video about textiles & microfibers
5 Gyres video about textiles & microfibers (in Spanish)
More on 5 Gyres research
5 Gyres Website
Follow 5 Gyres on Instagram >
Nadia Bunyan of Growing A.R.C. on how cultivating community led to the collective cultivation of the flax plant for linen
S06 Episode 279 | Jono Salfield of Afends on DIY hemp farming for textiles & why hemp rules (from both a farming & carbon-capture lens)
S06 Episode 278 | Why we must approach waste holistically & how Material Library Of India is reimagining & documenting neglected materials while advocating for systems change
S06 Episode 277 | Questioning how we *value* garments & respecting the limits of partnership across fashion with Jesus Herrera
S06 Episode 276 | Fashion psychology, contextualizing our buying behaviors amidst today's *speed* & how shopping is not equal to happiness
S06 Episode 275 | The Or Foundation's take on their recent agreement with SHEIN, how these grant funds are/will be used within the Kantamanto community & extended producer responsibility (EPR)
S06 Episode 274 | What are biosynthetic dyes & could they replace the toxic petroleum-heavy ingredients in today's predominant indigo garment dye?
S06 Episode 273 | Kesiena Onosigho on slow art as a tool for liberation and why sustainability isn't passive – it's something you live
S06 Episode 272 | Revealing lipstick's dirty little secrets & questioning the beauty industry's lack of regulation with Angela Weinberg of Kolorete
S06 Episode 271 | Anuj Sharma on button masala and questioning cut & sew as the primary way to join garments together
S06 Episode 270 | Doctoral candidate Timnit Kefela on the rise of plastic fashion & the journey of microplastics that come with it
S06 Episode 269 | Ngozi Okaro of Custom Collaborative on fashion cooperatives & how they can shift power dynamics, counter overproduction, and support local economies
S06 Episode 268 | Venetia La Manna on the need to *Remember Who Made Them* (our clothes) & whether we should buy fast fashion secondhand
S06 Episode 267 | Sally Fox on breeding naturally colored organic cotton
S06 Episode 266 | The challenges of navigating supply chain minimums while intentionally building regional systems with Leah of Wol Hide
S06 Episode 265 | Summer Dean (@ClimateDiva) on slowing down influence & building community instead of obsessing about analytics
S06 Episode 264 | Greenwashing in fashion and the need for mandatory measures & regulation
S06 Episode 263 | Dr. Sandra Niessen on *sacrifice zones* & the layers of erasure in fashion
S06 Episode 262 | Roland Geyer on why we should we be focusing on LABOR, not MATERIALS in the quest to reduce fashion's environmental impact
S06 Episode 261 | Can fashion and degrowth coexist, and specifically — do high heels exist in a degrowth world?
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The Modern West
Voices of Misery Podcast
House of Whimsical Terror
Dairyland Frights
Stuff You Should Know
Timcast IRL