How have chefs and the restaurant industry contributed to the near-extinction of abalone, the prized mollusk often associated with fine dining?
Indigenous tribes up and down the coast of what is today California have been eating abalone for thousands of years. In the 20th and 21st centuries, the influx of non-native folks led to the hunting, fetishization, and overconsumption of abalone. From San Francisco bohemians who were inspired by its beauty to Japanese fishermen making a business out of exporting it back home, the rapid decline of the abalone population led to the government instituting a ban on abalone fishing.
In this episode, we explore the various forces that led to the near-extinction of abalone and how the government ban has criminalized the millennia-old culinary customs of indigenous people like Hillary Renick, a Pomo-Paiute woman who has risked jail time and fines in order to keep those food traditions alive.
TW/CW - we discuss the trauma associated with the colonization of the United States and topics such as genocide and gun violence.
Guests:
Ann Vileisis
Her website | Buy the book
Hillary Renick
About Hilary | The High Country News Article | TEDxArchivorium with Hillary
Doug Bush
Cultured Abalone Instagram | Buy Cultured Abalone
Resources:
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This episode is supported by BentoBox and Clover. To learn more about their all-in-one platform for websites, online ordering, world-class point-of-sale, and payment solutions, check out getbento.com/better
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