Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!
Jon’s Original Episode:
EP 50: Jon Cardwell
References:
Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+
EP 169: Scott Johnston
Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)
(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success
(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it
(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’
(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’
(00:35:53) – Constantly learning
(00:40:42) – More about his training
(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum
(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension
(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation
(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing
(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?
(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM
(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?
(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?
(01:07:12) – Wrap up
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)
Darek Krol Memorial Clip
EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol
Merry Christmas!
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
T-Shirt Giveaway!
EP 46: Chris Kalous — Untold Stories, the Mythical Grade of A6+, and the Gift of Podcasting
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser)
EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’
EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) — The Guy Behind The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — ‘Nu World’ and the ‘Event Horizon’ Project (Teaser)
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
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