The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes
BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic
REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity
TAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics
REMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends
REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams
BOARD MEETINGS | What Pro Climbers Can Learn From Taylor Swift
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Ten Sleep with Taylor Fragomeni
REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training
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