The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney | Doing the Work
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Hueco Tanks Bouldering
Devin Dabney | Figuring It Out
Lor Sabourin | Dealing With Fear
Dirtbag State of Mind | Luke Mehall Interviews Kris Hampton
Kyle O‘Meara | Intentional Mentorship
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Smith Rock Sport Climbing with Justin Brown
BOARD MEETINGS | The Downgrading of Bibliographie from 15d to 15c
BOARD MEETINGS | Terrible Climbing Advice That’s Actually Great
Cody Kaemmerlen | Climb United
The American Climbing Project | Episode 2: The Great Equalizer (Special Preview)
Blake Cason, MS | Wellness and Habits for Climbing Performance
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | New River Gorge Sport Climbing with Jeremy Rush
MC Pete Woods | World Cup Commentating
When to Walk Away | Strategic Quitting
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Red River Gorge Sport Climbing
Climb Strong and Training Beta, LIVE at ICF 25 | Where to Start Training
Afterword, Acknowledgements, and a Bonus Chat with Brendan Leonard
Goals Not Met | Freedom and Transworld Depravity, with Lee Smith
Climb Better Faster | The Often Missing Piece, with Mario Stanley
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