The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.
In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity
Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro and Topic Description
(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill
(6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill
(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?
(16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades
(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles
(19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time
(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot
(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?
(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments
(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles
(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall
(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills
(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills
(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes
(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects
(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits
(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King
(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills
(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?
(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?
(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement
REWIND | Rannveig Aamodt on Coming Back Stronger
The Average Climber Podcast | Busting Training and Nutrition Myths
The Shape of Power | Level Up Your Climbing Skills
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Nature Untold | Eating Disorder Recovery
BREAKING BETA | Are Repeaters the Best Hangboard Protocol for Climbing Endurance?
BOARD MEETINGS | Performance Shortcuts That Might Stunt Your Growth (Bonus Episode)
Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community
Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture
Emily Holland | Rediscovering a Love of Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | How To Make the Most of a Board Session
Veronica Baker | The Climbing Initiative
Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full Time Coach
Introducing: Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
A Letter to Alex Johnson
Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Sport Climbing Tactic
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Bouldering Tactic
Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All The Things
Juliet Hammer | Grades, Body Comments, and Internet Trolls
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