The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.
In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity
Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro and Topic Description
(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill
(6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill
(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?
(16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades
(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles
(19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time
(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot
(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?
(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments
(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles
(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall
(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills
(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills
(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes
(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects
(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits
(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King
(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills
(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?
(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?
(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement
Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney | Doing the Work
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Hueco Tanks Bouldering
Devin Dabney | Figuring It Out
Lor Sabourin | Dealing With Fear
Dirtbag State of Mind | Luke Mehall Interviews Kris Hampton
Kyle O‘Meara | Intentional Mentorship
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Smith Rock Sport Climbing with Justin Brown
BOARD MEETINGS | The Downgrading of Bibliographie from 15d to 15c
BOARD MEETINGS | Terrible Climbing Advice That’s Actually Great
Cody Kaemmerlen | Climb United
The American Climbing Project | Episode 2: The Great Equalizer (Special Preview)
Blake Cason, MS | Wellness and Habits for Climbing Performance
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | New River Gorge Sport Climbing with Jeremy Rush
MC Pete Woods | World Cup Commentating
When to Walk Away | Strategic Quitting
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Red River Gorge Sport Climbing
Climb Strong and Training Beta, LIVE at ICF 25 | Where to Start Training
Afterword, Acknowledgements, and a Bonus Chat with Brendan Leonard
Goals Not Met | Freedom and Transworld Depravity, with Lee Smith
Climb Better Faster | The Often Missing Piece, with Mario Stanley
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