The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
Bill Ramsey | A Philosophy of Sending
Dr. Jared Vagy | Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics
Will Anglin & Rowland Chen | P.O.E. Part 2
Dr. Tyler Nelson | Making Sense of Science for Climbers
Will Anglin & Michael Rosato | Boards vs. Spray Walls
The BlackHeathens | Intentional Climbing Community
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Important
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated
Ravioli Biceps | Moonboard Benchmarking
Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau?
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Climbers Should Use Kettlebells, with Paul Corsaro
Lee Cossey | Damage Control in Chaos
Dru Mack | Endurance Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Barriers to Outdoor Climbing Improvement
Will Hammersla | Successful Climbing Coaching
Anna Davey | Working For It
BOARD MEETINGS | Should You Train Full Crimp and Pockets?
BOARD MEETINGS | Empowered
Dave Chancellor & Yusuf Daneshyar | A Business for the People
Maureen Beck | Adapting: Part 2
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