The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes
BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic
REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity
TAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics
REMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends
REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams
BOARD MEETINGS | What Pro Climbers Can Learn From Taylor Swift
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Ten Sleep with Taylor Fragomeni
REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training
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