The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
REWIND | Rannveig Aamodt on Coming Back Stronger
The Average Climber Podcast | Busting Training and Nutrition Myths
The Shape of Power | Level Up Your Climbing Skills
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Nature Untold | Eating Disorder Recovery
BREAKING BETA | Are Repeaters the Best Hangboard Protocol for Climbing Endurance?
BOARD MEETINGS | Performance Shortcuts That Might Stunt Your Growth (Bonus Episode)
Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community
Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture
Emily Holland | Rediscovering a Love of Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | How To Make the Most of a Board Session
Veronica Baker | The Climbing Initiative
Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full Time Coach
Introducing: Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
A Letter to Alex Johnson
Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Sport Climbing Tactic
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Bouldering Tactic
Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All The Things
Juliet Hammer | Grades, Body Comments, and Internet Trolls
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