The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney | Doing the Work
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Hueco Tanks Bouldering
Devin Dabney | Figuring It Out
Lor Sabourin | Dealing With Fear
Dirtbag State of Mind | Luke Mehall Interviews Kris Hampton
Kyle O‘Meara | Intentional Mentorship
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Smith Rock Sport Climbing with Justin Brown
BOARD MEETINGS | The Downgrading of Bibliographie from 15d to 15c
BOARD MEETINGS | Terrible Climbing Advice That’s Actually Great
Cody Kaemmerlen | Climb United
The American Climbing Project | Episode 2: The Great Equalizer (Special Preview)
Blake Cason, MS | Wellness and Habits for Climbing Performance
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | New River Gorge Sport Climbing with Jeremy Rush
MC Pete Woods | World Cup Commentating
When to Walk Away | Strategic Quitting
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Red River Gorge Sport Climbing
Climb Strong and Training Beta, LIVE at ICF 25 | Where to Start Training
Afterword, Acknowledgements, and a Bonus Chat with Brendan Leonard
Goals Not Met | Freedom and Transworld Depravity, with Lee Smith
Climb Better Faster | The Often Missing Piece, with Mario Stanley
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Cal’s Week in Review
Outside Podcast
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast