Detailed show note (usually a Patreon exclusive but wanted everyone to get the links below):
There is hardly a split that is as easy and that yields the reliable results as the Runaway split we all have learned from Ang Roell and Sam Comfort. Remember it when you just need to get it done!
This is their description of the process from their SARE grant description:
"....Move the hive to a new position in the yard. (It can be close to the original spot, i.e. on the same pallet, but with the entrance facing a new direction.)
Set up a new, empty, similar box where it was.
Move back one NEWER comb of MOSTLY OPEN BROOD wi...
Detailed show note (usually a Patreon exclusive but wanted everyone to get the links below):
There is hardly a split that is as easy and that yields the reliable results as the Runaway split we all have learned from Ang Roell and Sam Comfort. Remember it when you just need to get it done!
This is their description of the process from their SARE grant description:
"....Move the hive to a new position in the yard. (It can be close to the original spot, i.e. on the same pallet, but with the entrance facing a new direction.)
-
Set up a new, empty, similar box where it was.
-
Move back one NEWER comb of MOSTLY OPEN BROOD with adhering bees and one comb of food (nectar/pollen) with adhering bees. If the queen is seen, leave her in the new position (or remove her for use elsewhere). Replace the combs with foundation or empty bars. Put the brood and food with bees in the new box (away from the entrance), place in foundation or empty bars, cover with a lid, and you’re done. The field bees will join this queenless hive and help build a new brood nest.
-
Check the hive in 4 weeks for eggs, larvae, and the first capped brood from the new queen. If no eggs are present, or if laying workers are laying multiple eggs per cell, the hive can be shaken out or combined with a different split at no loss.
NOTE: You do not need to find the queen, but if you see her during the splitting process, she can be caged and used elsewhere, so that both sides raise a queen and experience a break in brood rearing. Or she can remain in the moved portion to be split again later or the hive expanded for honey production. (Note that continuous brood rearing also can build large populations of Varroa mites.) (Source: https://projects.sare.org/project-reports/fne20-964/)
Leigh again here. You may notice the things I do different are:
1. Putting drawn comb in the new box at the original location so that the field force might collect honey while they are waiting for their larval queen to grow up and go on her mating flight. For three weeks they will have no brood to care for and the could spend that time collecting nectar if you have a flow. On the other hand, their method could yield a lot of nice new comb. I haven't tried it with all foundation.
2. I shake in some additional nurse bees to the hive bodies at the original site....just because I'm like that. Ha! I also put more garlic than called for in most any cooking recipe. ;-) Ang and Sam's recipe places the brood frame WITH clinging bees but I know some beginners would be nervous about moving the queen so I gave an alternative nurse bee transfer method. Either way is good as long as there are nurse bees in there.
Finally, the link to their PDF handout is here and it has the conclusions of their study as well as the split instructions. The illustration is using the top bars and a Comfort hive but the process is the same no matter what kind of hive you use.
https://projects.sare.org/wp-content/uploads/ComparingQueenRearingMethods_FactSheet.pdf
Thank you all so much for listening and for all you do for the bees.
Leigh
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About Beekeeping at Five Apple: Leigh keeps bees in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. She cares for around a dozen hives in a rural Appalachian highland climate. Colonies are managed for bee health with active selection for vigor, genetic diversity and disease resistance, but without chemical treatments for over a decade. The apiary is self-sustaining (not needing to buy/catch replacement bees since 2010) and produces honey and nucs most every year.
