The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Ten Sleep with Taylor Fragomeni
REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training
Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)
Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)
Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)
REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)
REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)
McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands
BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch
REWIND | Beth Rodden on Parenting, Identity and Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
Patty Law | From Belay Check to Gym Ownership
REWIND | Tommy Caldwell on Belief and Partnership
REMIX | PROCESS (featuring Alex Megos, Sam Elias, Arno Ilgner and Trevor Ragan)
Nominations for Most Inspiring Ascents and What’s New for 2023
BOARD MEETINGS | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym
BUILT OUTDOORS | Amy Skinner and Joan Chase of Wild Iris Mountain Sports
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