The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes
BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic
REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity
TAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics
REMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends
REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams
BOARD MEETINGS | What Pro Climbers Can Learn From Taylor Swift
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Ten Sleep with Taylor Fragomeni
REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training
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